Alsace Wines – A Pleasant Surprise
Alsace is a major wine-producing region in northeastern France. It is a geographic area with a strong German influence because the area has been controlled by either France or Germany at several points in history. For centuries, Alsace was the battleground between feuding France and Germany.
Alsace wine, also called Alsatian wine, is primarily white and typically made from grapes similar to those used in German wines. Both sweet and dry wines are produced, often from aromatic varieties of grapes. Several of the wines of Alsace can be a dry white wine lover’s dream. These powerfully built wines provide a refreshing alternative to California and French chardonnays and offer a rainbow of grape varieties and flavors.
Most of the Alsatian wines we see in the USA are Riesling and Gewurtztraminer. The wines here are sold by their grape variety, as most California wines are, making their labels easy to understand. Both grape varieties age gracefully in the bottle, too. But those who are familiar with lush German Rieslings or semi-sweet California Gewurtztraminers should note that Alsatian wines are typically made very dry, except for some varieties of dessert-style wines.
The dryness is almost deceptive. The best Reislings have floral aromas, and the Gewurtztraminers showcase aromas of tropical fruit, setting up your mouth for at least a hint of sweetness. But the taste is steely and anything but sweet, with some wines having an agreeable bitterness in the aftertaste reminiscent of grapefruit. The Reislings match well with seafood, and the Gewurtztraminers can accompany smoked meats and fish as well as spicy Oriental dishes.
Two other grape varieties in which the Alsatians excel are the Pinot blanc and Pinot gris. A 2008 Pinot blanc from Marcel Deiss was recently rated the favorite among eight non-sparkling wines sampled–and it was the least expensive at $11 a bottle.
While most Alsace wines are white, there are some pale red and rosé varieties, which are typically made from Pinot Noir grapes. Most of the white wines from Alsace are made from aromatic grape varieties, so many characteristic Alsace wines are aromatic, floral and spicy.
Consumers may be wise to become more vintage-conscious with Alsatian wines than with wines from other regions. Wines from the very good 2008 vintage have arrived in the USA, but if you can find any of the remaining 2003s or 2005s on the shelf, they should be very enjoyable. Vintages that have not earned the best reputation are from 2004 and 2007. If you are looking for an inexpensive dry white wine, you might want to give wines from Alsace a try.
